This isn’t fancy fusion, it’s exemplary Japanese, prepared under the watchful eye of classically trained Head Chef Yuya Kikuchi, who honed his skills in ryotei, Japan’s traditional dining establishments, and now works with local suppliers to ensure that the Mitsukoshi kitchen is filled with the freshest, most seasonal ingredients. We tried a superb sashimi platter; the scallop with truffle was elegant and umami-rich. “It’s not true when Japanese chefs say you can’t get good ingredients here in the UK; you can, you just need to know how to use them”, says Chef Kikuchi. Which is why the (Donald Russell Scottish) sirloin steak was incredibly tender (“you’ve got to know how to cut it”), melting in the mouth. The dessert, a spring special, was a delight; a baby-pink ball of rhubarb ice-cream, infused with sakura liqueur, served with dango, dripping with a Grand Marnier and azuki bean sauce. Chef Kikuchi’s passion is evident in the food, whether you plump for a kaiseki course, shabu-shabu or sukiyaki hotpot, sushi & sashimi or a la carte. Mitsukoshi can also design you a bespoke party menu for your budget. If you’re a fan of shochu, head to the intimate Shochu Bar. Open in the evenings, this is a great place to sample the diverse range of barley, sweet potato and rice shochu on offer, in a retro space that whisks you away from Regent Street to a Tokyo lounge bar.
Dorland House, 14-20 Lower Regent
Street, London SW1Y 4PH
Mon-Sun 12.00-15.00, 18.00-22.00
Lunch £12; Dinner £23